Saturday, June 16, 2012
Wednesday, June 13, 2012
Well, instead of just sitting there and wishing for a new paint job on the old girl, I decided to do something about it... after going round and round about color choices and paint schemes I decided to go back to the original "early Cortez" scheme with the tri-color (dark over light brown with the white belt line and roof.) Now, the roof is NO where near ready for paint quite yet, the rest of the body was just about ready so I went ahead and put some paint on the old girl last Sunday.
I went simple, and easily supplied Rustolium Professional Enamel, in spray cans in Dark Brown, Ivory and Gloss White. All three are available at just about any home improvement warehouse out there, so as the rust returns (as I know it will) I can sand and repaint to match perfectly at any time. Touchup paint is pre-mixed and easy cleanup in the Rattlecans. Done and done.
So it's not entirely done yet, I ran out of white as teh night approached on Sunday night before I flew to New York for the week... so this is where it sits today: (I painted the wheels white after I took these pictures, the Wheel cover is Dark Brown to match the upper body.)
This is going to change a bit... I'll keep the dark brown up by the windshield, then wrap the white around the front and meet the Ivory at the body line.
ran out of white...
this was repainted Ivory instead... didn't like it white after all when it was mocked up in position..
yea, not digging the bright white on the grill. The 63-68 had a much smaller grill so it worked better.. on the 69 Deluxe it was just too much, went with the Ivory instead for the 2nd coat.
Again, white will wrap around the front too.
One more coat should do it over here
and the inspiration for the paint scheme:
I went simple, and easily supplied Rustolium Professional Enamel, in spray cans in Dark Brown, Ivory and Gloss White. All three are available at just about any home improvement warehouse out there, so as the rust returns (as I know it will) I can sand and repaint to match perfectly at any time. Touchup paint is pre-mixed and easy cleanup in the Rattlecans. Done and done.
So it's not entirely done yet, I ran out of white as teh night approached on Sunday night before I flew to New York for the week... so this is where it sits today: (I painted the wheels white after I took these pictures, the Wheel cover is Dark Brown to match the upper body.)
This is going to change a bit... I'll keep the dark brown up by the windshield, then wrap the white around the front and meet the Ivory at the body line.
ran out of white...
this was repainted Ivory instead... didn't like it white after all when it was mocked up in position..
yea, not digging the bright white on the grill. The 63-68 had a much smaller grill so it worked better.. on the 69 Deluxe it was just too much, went with the Ivory instead for the 2nd coat.
Again, white will wrap around the front too.
One more coat should do it over here
and the inspiration for the paint scheme:
Wednesday, May 30, 2012
Tuesday, May 29, 2012
So, I added a push button electric starter on both the 3 burner Magic Chef and the original Dometic 2 way fridge today. I went for an over-nighter this weekend and was fed up with how I needed to light the fridge.. with a long wood match taped to a coat hanger. Not the safest, but it was all that worked being the twist sparker no longer did the job. Previous owners gave me the idea with a coat hander bent in a spiral at the end to hold standard wooden matches... moving on.
I had a really cool push button electric starter on a BBQ a few years back and thought that might be a good way to go. This is a spark generator powered by a single AA battery, not the single spark Piezio type lighters you find on most BBQs. So where to get them? Walmart of course. You get 3 per package, complete with battery and all for $17. They give you two types of lighters, you will only use the "universal" lighters. there are 2 of those per pack. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Backyard-Grill-Electronic-Ingnitor-Kit/19581268
I did the fridge first, took off the outside lower vent and the windscreen to get to the burner, drilled a hole in the rear assembly (Although, I could have used the one that was already there) made a quick mount out of 1/8 plywood for the spark generator up front, ran the ground, adjusted the lighter and presto! Super easy to light now, just turn on the gas, hold the gas button for 15 seconds and pop pop pop it lights. :-)
The stove was a bit harder... after I got them all installed and adjusted (Drilled a screw into the burner mounts to install the lighters) I realized the top was also a ground too, so they had to be just about perfect to be far enough away from the burner to create a hot enough spark, but close enough to the burner to not arc to the stovetop. Few hours later, the stove is super easy to light now too.. now yes, it's just as easy to use a stick lighter.. but this was fun. :)
I had a really cool push button electric starter on a BBQ a few years back and thought that might be a good way to go. This is a spark generator powered by a single AA battery, not the single spark Piezio type lighters you find on most BBQs. So where to get them? Walmart of course. You get 3 per package, complete with battery and all for $17. They give you two types of lighters, you will only use the "universal" lighters. there are 2 of those per pack. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Backyard-Grill-Electronic-Ingnitor-Kit/19581268
I did the fridge first, took off the outside lower vent and the windscreen to get to the burner, drilled a hole in the rear assembly (Although, I could have used the one that was already there) made a quick mount out of 1/8 plywood for the spark generator up front, ran the ground, adjusted the lighter and presto! Super easy to light now, just turn on the gas, hold the gas button for 15 seconds and pop pop pop it lights. :-)
The stove was a bit harder... after I got them all installed and adjusted (Drilled a screw into the burner mounts to install the lighters) I realized the top was also a ground too, so they had to be just about perfect to be far enough away from the burner to create a hot enough spark, but close enough to the burner to not arc to the stovetop. Few hours later, the stove is super easy to light now too.. now yes, it's just as easy to use a stick lighter.. but this was fun. :)
Monday, February 27, 2012
Getting work done again... putting on the parts I bought in December FINALLY! :)
So I test fit all my parts to make sure everything fit right before I started cutting holes in the roof.. a 14" by 14" hole is a big commitment so I needed to make sure everything fits nicely... and it couldn't have been any closer!
So I needed to replace the 6" round vent above the stove for two reasons, 1. It was Rusted solid and 2. It was leaking... (lucky for me I had the drawer with the pots and pans on top of the stove, so the leak went in a soup pot... not sure how that happened as good as it did.. but anyways... it was going to be replaced by the 2-speed fan I removed to install the AC last fall.
So, before I cut a hole I wanted to make sure a few other parts I bought wouldn't interfere with the placement of the fan. I was stuck between a few factors, the metal rib the ceiling trim mounted to on the forward side, the solid steel beam on the Port side, and the roof pod on the starboard side. So, I needed to install the roof pod first, right? Right.
The roof pod had a dependency too... There is a platform that runs to the starboard side of it... and a ladder that attached to the aft of that.. so they all needed to be installed to make sure the other part fits too. So I estimated the platform, and screwed the ladder to the back of the platform and lined up the ladder to the rear with a couple of self-tapping screws. Then I drilled the holes for each step and installed the with stainless machine bolts and nuts.
Then once the ladder was installed and I lined up the platform and secured it down with self tapping poly sealing screws. Next I lined up the pod to the platform, and screwed that down too. Yay, the steps easily support my 220 pound self. Good enough for me! The ladder is not only mounted to the sheet metal but to the rails too.. so each step is actually being supported by 12 bolts, and steel. :)
So then then the hole for the fan was able to be situated and... cut. Let me tell you, after trying to track down leaks (they come from ANYWHERE!!!) in the Aristocrat and the Barth, cutting a hole of any size is enough to give someone an anxiety attack. But away I cut with my skilsaw and some butyl putty tape and a handful of screws later... in went the new (old) fan. Now getting the ceiling panel cut to size and trimmed was a long ordeal... we'll just say it was a pain, but finally came together with the help of one 2" screw. :)
Okay, so that was Saturday.
Sunday, I tried to install the closet doors but that didn't quite happen. Instead, Emerson and I installed the awning. (he stood on the rear ladder to tell me it was strait) and I mounted it not in the factory position. The Cortezes normally have the awning installed between the rain gutter and the window on the Starboard side... problem in my case was I'm 6'5" tall so I would have to duck every time I went under it... what a pain!. So I put it on the roof! :)
It's about 7" tall at the top. Perfect! I mounted the pole holders on the sides, put the poles together and up the awning went. Fantastic! So I can make a couple of ropes to keep tension on the awning poles in case of a windstorm.. I could also extend the poles to the ground and tie it down similar to the rope and pole awning from the Aristocrat. Hopefully I can get my dad to re-stitch me some new fabric... this one is okay but has seen better days for the past 44 years. :)
Okay... so last but not least... while I had the rear closet panel out and I could see into the wall, I thought this was a good time to install the porch light I wanted. So I put the clear starburst light up and wired it in with a switch.
So I needed to replace the 6" round vent above the stove for two reasons, 1. It was Rusted solid and 2. It was leaking... (lucky for me I had the drawer with the pots and pans on top of the stove, so the leak went in a soup pot... not sure how that happened as good as it did.. but anyways... it was going to be replaced by the 2-speed fan I removed to install the AC last fall.
So, before I cut a hole I wanted to make sure a few other parts I bought wouldn't interfere with the placement of the fan. I was stuck between a few factors, the metal rib the ceiling trim mounted to on the forward side, the solid steel beam on the Port side, and the roof pod on the starboard side. So, I needed to install the roof pod first, right? Right.
The roof pod had a dependency too... There is a platform that runs to the starboard side of it... and a ladder that attached to the aft of that.. so they all needed to be installed to make sure the other part fits too. So I estimated the platform, and screwed the ladder to the back of the platform and lined up the ladder to the rear with a couple of self-tapping screws. Then I drilled the holes for each step and installed the with stainless machine bolts and nuts.
Then once the ladder was installed and I lined up the platform and secured it down with self tapping poly sealing screws. Next I lined up the pod to the platform, and screwed that down too. Yay, the steps easily support my 220 pound self. Good enough for me! The ladder is not only mounted to the sheet metal but to the rails too.. so each step is actually being supported by 12 bolts, and steel. :)
So then then the hole for the fan was able to be situated and... cut. Let me tell you, after trying to track down leaks (they come from ANYWHERE!!!) in the Aristocrat and the Barth, cutting a hole of any size is enough to give someone an anxiety attack. But away I cut with my skilsaw and some butyl putty tape and a handful of screws later... in went the new (old) fan. Now getting the ceiling panel cut to size and trimmed was a long ordeal... we'll just say it was a pain, but finally came together with the help of one 2" screw. :)
Okay, so that was Saturday.
Sunday, I tried to install the closet doors but that didn't quite happen. Instead, Emerson and I installed the awning. (he stood on the rear ladder to tell me it was strait) and I mounted it not in the factory position. The Cortezes normally have the awning installed between the rain gutter and the window on the Starboard side... problem in my case was I'm 6'5" tall so I would have to duck every time I went under it... what a pain!. So I put it on the roof! :)
It's about 7" tall at the top. Perfect! I mounted the pole holders on the sides, put the poles together and up the awning went. Fantastic! So I can make a couple of ropes to keep tension on the awning poles in case of a windstorm.. I could also extend the poles to the ground and tie it down similar to the rope and pole awning from the Aristocrat. Hopefully I can get my dad to re-stitch me some new fabric... this one is okay but has seen better days for the past 44 years. :)
Okay... so last but not least... while I had the rear closet panel out and I could see into the wall, I thought this was a good time to install the porch light I wanted. So I put the clear starburst light up and wired it in with a switch.
Saturday, December 3, 2011
More parts parts parts parts...
So I paid a visit to my friend Rodney Fowler out in Auburn as he was parting out Phil's old 1968 Cortez. This is the Cortez I looked at in Seattle when I still had my Barth before I traded for the current Cortez. It had some choice parts I felt like I missed out on, until I met up with Rodney at the Vintage Rally back in Sept. He said he was only after the running gear, and didn't have any plans for the other parts (interior and exterior). So I gave him some cash to balance out his investment in the deal, he kept the title and the shell and I got to take whatever I wanted off the 68. Here is a list of what I pulled off. :)
Exterior Parts:
Rear Ladder, platform and Roof Pod (Similar to a Thule Box, water tight roof mounted storage)
Side Awning (What's a RV without an awning, right?) complete with mounts and poles.
Rear Grab Handle
All 6 Roof Marker Lights (Match mine, will replace round lights on the edges of the roof)
Interior Parts:
Sliding Closet doors (With full size mirror)
Bathroom door (with latching hardware for travel, and waterproof interior skin that matches my bathroom walls)
Dresser Drawers for the closet (With travel latch)
Dining table (White with linen pattern... smooth glossy finish)
Cupboard Latches
Drawer latches
3 way Dometic Fridge (a lot newer than the 42 year old fridge I have... may swap it or just keep as backup)
Power Converter (20amp 120v to 12v, good for bench testing stuff)
Porcelain Toilet (same as mine, but I accidently cracked mine, oops)
pretty darn good parts haul for $300, and I don't have to dispose of the body. ;)
update to the wheels on the last post... So I parted out the last set of wheels... I sold the tires for $250, and traded the rims to a guy named John for a different set of 20" wheels and tires with a less aggressive offset. They look a little something like this:
So I'm pretty sure teh offset and tire size is fine with these... as instead of the 305/55/20 they are 305/50/20 which is a 31" diameter like my 16x7.5 stock tires. But... the big issue I still have is the lugs on my Cortez. They are 11/16" and it's absolutely impossible to find normal size lug nuts for 11/16 lugs. They are the flat mount type dually style lugs. Oh well.. on the auction block they go.
Exterior Parts:
Rear Ladder, platform and Roof Pod (Similar to a Thule Box, water tight roof mounted storage)
Side Awning (What's a RV without an awning, right?) complete with mounts and poles.
Rear Grab Handle
All 6 Roof Marker Lights (Match mine, will replace round lights on the edges of the roof)
Interior Parts:
Sliding Closet doors (With full size mirror)
Bathroom door (with latching hardware for travel, and waterproof interior skin that matches my bathroom walls)
Dresser Drawers for the closet (With travel latch)
Dining table (White with linen pattern... smooth glossy finish)
Cupboard Latches
Drawer latches
3 way Dometic Fridge (a lot newer than the 42 year old fridge I have... may swap it or just keep as backup)
Power Converter (20amp 120v to 12v, good for bench testing stuff)
Porcelain Toilet (same as mine, but I accidently cracked mine, oops)
pretty darn good parts haul for $300, and I don't have to dispose of the body. ;)
update to the wheels on the last post... So I parted out the last set of wheels... I sold the tires for $250, and traded the rims to a guy named John for a different set of 20" wheels and tires with a less aggressive offset. They look a little something like this:
So I'm pretty sure teh offset and tire size is fine with these... as instead of the 305/55/20 they are 305/50/20 which is a 31" diameter like my 16x7.5 stock tires. But... the big issue I still have is the lugs on my Cortez. They are 11/16" and it's absolutely impossible to find normal size lug nuts for 11/16 lugs. They are the flat mount type dually style lugs. Oh well.. on the auction block they go.
Sunday, October 9, 2011
Bought some new wheels for the Cortez
So I lucked out on craigslist again, and picked up a set of 20" 8 Lug wheels and 33" tires. I need to work out a few things to see if they are going to work... size based on my measurements should be right on with the 305/55/20 Mickey Thompson tires.
The lug bolts I have are too big for these wheel's holes... so I need to figure out if it would be better to swap out the bolts to a standard Chevy lug (wheels came with 32 chrome lug nuts) or better to just drill out the holes to the larger size and get new lug nuts... Since I'm missing tow lugs on one of the rear wheels, I need to replace some anyways... so it's not too bad to just throw a few new ones in... on all 4 wheels though. Hmmmm.
The wheels themselves are pretty nice multi-spoke Chrome with an aggressive lip. They measure out at 20" x 10" and et25mm. So fitment is going to be close for sure! I may need to cut/roll the fender lips to get them to tuck up inside the fenders. (They already do with Stock wheels... but I've tossed around the idea of lowering it a bit. would make it easier to get in and out.... but may cause issues with the driveway. Air may be in this RV's future.
Just got to get the body work and paint done first....
anyways here is a look at the new shoes:
and I have to jack it up a bit to fit them under the wheel well (other wheels were still on) but this at least gives a bit of perspective to what 20's would look like on there.
(I will try to replace this picture in the am.)
The lug bolts I have are too big for these wheel's holes... so I need to figure out if it would be better to swap out the bolts to a standard Chevy lug (wheels came with 32 chrome lug nuts) or better to just drill out the holes to the larger size and get new lug nuts... Since I'm missing tow lugs on one of the rear wheels, I need to replace some anyways... so it's not too bad to just throw a few new ones in... on all 4 wheels though. Hmmmm.
The wheels themselves are pretty nice multi-spoke Chrome with an aggressive lip. They measure out at 20" x 10" and et25mm. So fitment is going to be close for sure! I may need to cut/roll the fender lips to get them to tuck up inside the fenders. (They already do with Stock wheels... but I've tossed around the idea of lowering it a bit. would make it easier to get in and out.... but may cause issues with the driveway. Air may be in this RV's future.
Just got to get the body work and paint done first....
anyways here is a look at the new shoes:
and I have to jack it up a bit to fit them under the wheel well (other wheels were still on) but this at least gives a bit of perspective to what 20's would look like on there.
(I will try to replace this picture in the am.)
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